A healthy taste of madness – Passau to Grein

In Passau, is time for new guests to joins us. Marco comes with his girlfriend Naike, in a chilly morning over a steamy river. Marco is a big man, Naike a tiny girl: They make for a nice couple.

Passau is beautiful: Three rivers, three waters, rocks, tourism and life. The Inn is the biggest of the rivers and the most powerful, thanks to the glaciers feeding it.

Hang on… Why, then, is the main river called Danube? It should be called Inn, since the Danube flows into the Inn and not the other way around! Just think how many litres of ink could be saved by using the shortest name…

Misteries of us (in) sapiens.

Since I’m not a tourist guide, I won’t tell you about Passau’s sights, but rather about what you can’t easily spot there: The the disaster carried out on the Danube, whose banks have been covered with cement, killing life. It’s so sad. (more…)

 

Wrath of the Gods – Regensburg to Passau

Slowly but surely, we proceed: According to my calculations, far from being accurate, we should be a handful of km away from the 2.000 milestone. In 70 km we’ll celebrate!

Regensburg is too beautiful to be described by words. Don’t miss it if you can, I’ll never be able to tell you its true essence. You have to see and possibly live it: It’s special. This is our fourth day of navigation along the Danube, more than 180 km. The water is very clean, the current variable between 2 and 7 km per hour.

The river sides are mostly embanked and covered by stones, “rip-rap” is the correct English term (as I’m told by Andrea who’s the expert), not allowing the river to flow the way it wants and to create its own path. Sad to see. There’re some beaches and oxbow lakes left, way better than the Rhine and the most part of the Main.

However we still feel like being in a large, beautiful canal rather than in a river. (more…)

 

Coconut Danube – Nürnberg to Regensburg

A few days ago I wrote: “I’m in Nürnberg. Nice city.”

Same usual mayhem of every city, for those who come from the healthy and simple life on the river. Poverty and richness, comfort and uneasiness walk together. Happily, sometimes.

I expected worse: I heard many people speaking ill about Nürnberg. It’s got a strong soul and a tiny bit of madness.

It was burned to the ground during WW2: You can feel that there was lots of suffering. Many industries, sweat, Dürer, beautiful bridges, St Lawrence’s Church with its statue crowded gate, glass, hi-tech, led and a breast fountain (I know another one in Treviso, close to Venice!).

The best (driverless!!) metro and transport network that I’ve ever seen and used. I unintentionally found myself in the red light district, surrounded by women who’re quite smart yet outrageous, not for their fault but because of a society that’s sick of indecency. A Seduction (“se-ducere” from latin, “attracting to us”) that we all use somehow, although with different styles and tones.

Est modus in rebus, there’s a way to do everything. And manners are important.

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