Sweet exile

I write sitting on a nice sofa, in this beautiful Café Mozaic that smells of past although it’s placed in a modern building. A soprano sax lightly dances between cultures, while the muezzin softly calls the prayers from the minaret. Outside, I can see the heavy shape of the archaeological museum, Cuban houses ruined but still lived-in, empty roman sepulchres, gravestones, antiquarians laying on their bronzes, sweet and polite straw dogs. The wind blows strong. And homesick Ovid looks to the sea. In front od him, they’ve built a “Spizzico” pizzeria. I could die here, now, for this imperfectly perfect beauty.

Constanta already won my heart. How many hearts should I own to withstand this journey? When I think to the complaints and to the boredom of many travel companions, I wonder how it’s possible not to fall in love of this ever changing world. And smile.

Would it be just ignorance? Ignorance to me is a strange animal, it hangs on your back like a cat and never lets you go. (more…)


What I love and what I hate

After a few days in Braila it’s time to set off. In the morning I’m so tired. Sticking hot, more than 40 degrees, thousands of biting gnats, fishermen turning on their loudy outboards at 4 in the morning, people shouting and waves. Sleeping in the cities is always hard. Even my stomach is not well.

I receive an sms saying that I have to be in Tulcea by this evening. It’s 101 km away! Assuming to get the help of a very strong wind it might be possible, but right now we have a southerly headwind slowing me down and on top of that I don’t feel at my best.
Anyway, let’s try.

After 3 km I even get stopped by the police for a control. Kind and professional, no problem at all. I decide that the only way to get in Tulcea in time is by getting towed by Serena. I don’t like it but I don’t have any other option since Mrs Viorica, the president of Arbdd (meaning Administration of the Biosphere of Danube Delta) comes from Budapest to grant me an interview.

The journey by motor is easy but boring and loud. Everything is so dull thanks to this wonderful object that burns and produces movement. Wonderful and dangerous. Laziness in ambush. Speed is the most overrated thing in the world. Anyway, I thank the little 4 ph overboard, and after 11 hours of traveling we’re in Tulcea. (more…)